Here’s a note to all the male fashion ignoramuses out there who still think it’s ok to stay scruffy: as menswear fall 2014 fashion week has just ended, maybe it’s time to think about making some changes. From either monochromatic or printed jaw-dropping classic Italian suits to more colourful and playful leisurewear, from elegant gentleman to insolent bad boy to preppy schoolboy, take your pick. For starters, we’ve reviewed some of the fall 2014 collections that just got off the runway.
At Prada, Miuccia presented a 70s influenced collection of high-waisted pants with coloured lining, aviator-type buttoned jackets, flat-collared shirts and loosely fastened neckerchiefs, all in a subtle combination of earthly tones like slate blue, sunset orange, mocha and khaki, which had a distinct 70s postman uniform air.
As for Vivienne Westwood, her collection hinted at the ‘Ken doll meets Spiderman’ look – a curious mixture of vintage comics and modern active wear references. Sharply cut 40s two and three-piece suits in neutral and sober colours contrasted biker pants and shiny ‘second skin’ tops, embossed leather effects and translucent tracksuits in primary tones. The dichotomy of this collection, exaggerated classicism versus action hero modernity, possibly refers to the transformation theme that exists in numerous vintage comics tales like Batman, Spiderman or Superman: that of the shy, clumsy, almost old-fashioned person who becomes a justice fighter with secret powers overnight. While leading this double life, the classic suits could reflect the character’s daytime persona, a cover up and much more chic version of his older self, while the active wear could be his secret uniform, in other words, formal attire versus leisurewear.
Burberry Prorsum’s young college boy signature look took a more relaxed turn this season. Christopher Bailey’s typically classic collection was made up of black and grey flannel straight-leg pants, beautifully printed shirts, and well-cut jackets and coats, in sober colours. Bailey gave the otherwise traditionally masculine beau gosse outfits a slight ‘holiday’ twist by adding white fishnet see-through undershirts and ladylike scarves.
Patrick Grant, the designer behind the brand E.Tautz, who is dedicated to Savile Row’s beautiful tailoring tradition, made a fashion statement by presenting a dark, strict collection that included 30s Avant-garde prints on sweaters, bowler hats, checkered tweed suits and oversized cloak coats, all of which had a certain Victorian, buttoned-up air.
Dolce & Gabbana turned to Sicily’s history once again, only this time, there were inspired by its medieval Norman conquest: cathedral and chivalry prints on shirts and sweatshirts, studded slippers and gloves, coat of mail inspired jumpers, woolen hoods, striped pants and crowns, while another part of the collection winked at 20s Al Capone beautiful thin-striped double and single breasted suits with coloured lapels.
Donatella Versace’s collection was heavily biker, rodeo and bad boy inspired. Leather jackets and pants, cowboy boots, stars, gold detailing and oiled denim all pointed towards the wild outlaw style, in a typical, provocatively sexualized, impressively luxurious, Versace way.
In a very different spirit, Sylvia Fendi paid tribute to sober, classic masculinity with a limited palette of black, grey and navy blue and occasional touches of beige. Perfectly cut fur and leather jackets and coats and luxurious satiny suits made this collection the epitome of Italian chic: practical and extremely refined.
Slightly more daring was designer Massimiliano Giornetti’s collection for Salvatore Ferragamo, which also had a hint of 70s with its aviator style jackets and coats with square shoulders, large pockets and military type belts, while shortened 40s influenced double-breasted jackets and striped suits added to the discreetly retro mood.
Louise Kissa